The east coast railway carried Barnard’s party from a second night at Dingwall down through the Muir of Ord and a few miles further south to Beauly.  From there it was a carriage drive back north to the distillery and it is unclear why they didn’t stop at the nearby station of Muir of Ord to begin with.
      
  Barnard’s成員第二晚由東海岸鐵路從丁沃爾Dingwall到達Muir of Ord,再往南幾英哩到達Beauly比尤利。從那裡回頭往北到酒廠還要一段車程,目前還不清楚他們為什麼第一站沒有從Muir of Ord附近的車站開始。

Prior to Barnard’s visit Muir of Ord was the name for an area of land rather than a specific town.  The town was originally a small settlement known as Tarradale and was recorded as such on an 1881 map but had formally changed to Muir of Ord by 1906.  The town grew after the introduction of the railway, and the naming of the railway station as Muir of Ord when it was built in 1862 seems to have been the catalyst for the name Tarradale gradually falling out of use.
          
Barnard’s成員訪問之前,Muir of Ord這個名字代表的是島上的一個區域而不是特別代表一個城市。這個城市在1881年被地圖上標記為Tarradale的小聚落,但1906年已正式更名為Muir of Ord。這個城市在引進鐵路後開始繁榮,1862年完成的鐵路車站以Muir of Ord命名似乎是Tarradale這個名稱逐漸被淘汰的催化劑。

 Beauly_Priory Beauly的古修道院 

At Beauly he briefly mentions the ruins of the ancient Priory before they leave the town boundary.  The Priory was founded in 1230 AD as home to an order of Valliscaulian Monks from France and the name Beauly has a possible source from the French ‘beau lieu’ meaning ‘beautiful place’, although there may be a Gaelic origin too . The Priory is now a ruin and there is a chip shop nearby called, almost inevitably, the Friary – one of those names you would almost be disappointed if they hadn’t used.  Anyway, they do a good poke o’ chips when you are hungry from wandering between distilleries, ruins, stones, hotels, etc. etc.
       
離開Beauly的城市邊界前,他簡要提到的古修道院的廢墟。修道院始建於西元於1230年,是從法國Valliscaulian來的修士定居的地方,Beauly的名稱可能源自有在法語代表為美麗的地方,雖然也有可能源自蓋爾語。現在的修道院是一片廢墟,附近有一個賣薯條的店,而且幾乎是不可避免的,取了一個會讓你失望的名字就叫做Friary(修道院)。無論如何,他們做了一桶的薯條,當你逛了酒廠、廢墟、石砌建築和旅館等等之後,就只有吃了。

 Beyond the town Barnard arrives at the farmstead of the distillery owner, Alexander Mackenzie.  We have left Ross country now and arrived in Mackenzie lands and Barnard recounts the tale of the ‘Raid of Gilchrist’ about a feud between the Mackenzies and their fierce enemies the MacDonalds of Glengarry.  It was one of those unsavoury inter-clan incidents that I won’t go into too much detail on as it involves large groups of clan members being burned alive within a church and an inn.  Anderson’s guide describes it as “one of the most sanguinary and brutal affairs that stain the annals of an age of general blood and rapine”, which didn’t stop Barnard giving over almost one fifth of his report to the story.
       
離開了城市,Barnard到達酒廠老闆Alexander Mackenzie亞歷山大·麥肯齊的農莊。我們現在已經離開Ross羅斯鎮抵達Mackenzie的土地,Barnard講述“Raid of Gilchrist吉爾克里斯特的侵略的故事,關於Mackenzies和他們兇猛的敵人MacDonalds of Glengarry之間仇隙。那是令人討厭的部族內鬥事件,我不太會描述因為它有太多的細節涉及到有一大群族人被活活燒死在一座教堂和小旅館內。安德森的旅遊指南指出,“是最殺戮和殘酷的事件之ㄧ,染指了這個年代的史冊,充滿了血腥和掠奪。”這還無法停止Barnard講述了幾乎1/5的故事。

Glen_Ord_Stone"Brahan Seer"的碑文預言

 Barnard notes that the Muir (Moor) of Ord was celebrated for periodical cattle markets and the tradition still continues with the location for the old markets now home to the Mannsfield Showground which has been run by the Black Isle Farmers’ Society for over 50 years.  Nearby are two standing stones that Barnard notes as commemorative and connected with the [Brahan Seer’s] prophesy of the extinction of the Mackenzie Clan.  He gleefully records that as the distillery owner goes by that name the prophesy has not yet come true and the whisky he produces is “daily imbibed by the descendants of those who foretold his clan’s effacement”.
          Barnard
注意到Muir of Ord為了定期性的牲畜市場舉辦慶典並且繼續保有傳統,地點就在老市場,同時也是肖格朗德Mannsfield Showground的家,他在黑島農民協會會長任職達50多年。附近有兩個石碑,Barnard注意到"Brahan Seer"的碑文預言Mackenzie家族滅絕之間的紀念性和關連性。他興高采烈地記錄著酒廠老闆雖已成過去,但預言尚未成真,他生產的威士忌是“那些曾經預言他家族毀滅者的後裔,每日所飲用的威士忌”。

Glen_Ord_illicit_still  非法蒸餾的展示

The distillery itself was then known as just Ord, the change to Glen Ord coming at a now uncertain later date.  The whisky was labelled as Glen Ord and also Glen Oran as far back as the 1880s, later as just Ord and even, in the 1980s, as Glen Ordie.  To the west is Glen Orrin, recorded by Barnard as Glen Oran, which he notes as a “favourite resort” for smugglers and illicit stills even at his time, the distillery itself having been built in 1838 on the site of an old smugglers bothy.
        當時酒廠的名字就是大家熟知的
Ord,在不確定的日期被改稱為Glen Ord。威士忌被標示為Glen OrdGlen Oran可以追溯到1880’s年代,後來甚至只有使用Ord,在1980’s年代曾經使用Glen Ordie。往西部是Glen OrrinBarnard 記載為 Glen Oran,他指出這一段時間仍然是對於走私者和非法蒸餾者“最愛的地點,酒廠於1838建立在一個走私者的簡陋房舍旁。

  His comments on the water source are a little confusing but explainable.  He records the source as “Glen Oran and two lochs in the hills of Knockudas; and there are besides two reservoirs” and “The Oran rivulet, which proceeds from the glen, rattles along, close to the roofs of some of the buildings”.  The two lochs are Loch nan Eun and Loch nam Bonnach which lie beyond the adjoining hills of Cnoc Udais (his Knockudas) and Cnoc Croit na Maoile, also known as Ord Hill (from Gaelic for hammer/rounded hill) and whose northeast projections stretch almost to the distillery.
        他對於水源的意見是有點混亂,但可以解釋的。他對於水源記錄著“
Glen OranKnockudas山丘裡的兩個湖;就在2個蓄水池旁”和“Oran的溪流從幽谷中潺潺
流出,似乎就流向建築物的屋頂”。這兩個湖泊是那英湖nan Eunnam Bonnach波那湖,依序的躺在緊鄰的Cnoc Udais山谷旁和Cnoc Croit na Maoile,就是俗稱的歐德谷(Ord hill),(蓋爾語指鐵錘形/圓形山),往東北部沿伸過去幾乎都是酒廠。

Glen_Ord_Burn  Allt Fionnaidh (White Burn)

The two lochs feed the Allt Fionnaidh (White Burn) which is the water that rattles along past the distillery, the River Oran having turned north a couple of kilometres before reaching it.  The Allt Fionnaidh still feeds the large reservoir behind the distillery, itself rather than the stream being at a level close to the roof of the original maltings, and which drove two water wheels until the 1960s and still provides the cooling water.  Barnard doesn’t mention it but the mashing water was once brought from the Cuckoo Well but is now raised from boreholes down to an aquifer.
          兩個湖泊的的水先後注入
Allt FionnaidhWhite Burn)溪,再潺潺的流入酒廠,Oran河在到達目的之前的2公里轉向北方。Allt Fionnaidh溪持續的把水注入酒廠後方的大型蓄水池,本身不是把溪水流入接近傳統麥芽窯頂部的水平位置,而是用兩個水輪,一直使用到1960’年代,而且仍然提供冷卻水。Barnard並沒有提及糖化水源曾一度從Cuckoo Well杜鵑井取出來,但現在是鑿洞從地底層取出。

Barnard’s tour began by crossing a footbridge over the burn, likely where it flowed out of the reservoir in the lade, and entered the upper floor of the maltings which had an adjoining kiln heated with Dava peats, Dava being a large peat moor north of Grantown-on Spey.  Later in his report he notes that the distillery has a Heather House to store blossoms for adding to the peat in the kiln, an aromatic addition previously only noted at Highland Park although Barnard hints at a few more distilleries doing this.
         Barnard的遊覽從越過溪流的行人橋開始,可能是從蓄水池汲取水源的地方,進入麥芽窯的二樓毗鄰著窯心正在使用Dava泥煤加熱,Dava是大型泥煤取自斯貝Spey地區的格蘭唐Grantown北部沼澤地。後來在他的報告指出,酒廠裡有一個石南花屋儲存了一些花朵,添加在泥煤然後在窯裡使用,一種芳香以前只會出現在Highland ParkBarnard同時暗示現在很多酒廠都這麼做。

Glen_Ord_Malting  麥芽窯改成薩拉丁箱後方是麥芽倉庫

Additional floor maltings and a further two kilns were built at right angles to this around the turn of the century and were used until 1961 when Saladin box maltings were built inside the original building that Barnard had visited.  These were used until 1983 when the distillery switched to using the huge malting plant that was built next door in 1968 and which uses drum maltings to supply a number of Diageo distilleries, as far a field as Talisker on Skye, Dalwhinnie to the south and  Clynelish  to the north.  Glen Ord’s malt is now very lightly peated at just 2ppm.
        
添加的地板翻麥房子和另外兩個窯,當時Barnard曾經訪問過,剛好建於世紀交替的年代,一直1961年時,才被舊大樓新建的薩拉丁箱取代,這些一直被使用到1983年,為了提供Diageo帝亞吉歐旗下其他酒廠的需要而轉型為巨大的麥芽廠,於1968年於酒廠隔壁擴廠建立發芽桶,範圍包括遠到Skye司開島的Talisker,南方的Dalwhinnie和北方的Clynelish等蒸餾廠,Glen Ord麥芽的泥煤值很輕只有2ppm

 

Glen_Ord_Maltings 新式發芽桶式工廠 

Barnard recorded a good sized mash tun at 18 feet wide by 5 deep that supplied eight washbacks at 13,600 litres each.  As he left the Tun-room he saw through a window the two outside cylinder and tube condensers for the still house, which sat above a worm tub!?  Condensers were then a fairly recent innovation for distilleries so perhaps the worm tub used previously had been retained as a fall back?  The still house contained two old Pot Stills, the wash at 21,520 litres and spirit at 12,500 and all other processes here seemed fairly standard.
            Barnard
記錄著恰當尺寸的糖化槽寬1 8英尺,5英尺深,提供給每個容量為13,600公升的8個發酵槽。當他離開糖化槽的屋子,他透過窗戶看到外面有兩個蒸餾器的缸管式冷凝器,它曾經坐落在蟲桶的上面嗎?冷凝器當時對酒廠來講是比較創新的,所以先前使用的蟲桶被保存下來是為了自己保留後路?蒸餾室裡有兩個老舊的銅式蒸餾器,酒汁蒸餾器的容量為21,520公升,烈酒蒸餾器為12500公升,整個流程似乎相當標準。

There were no engines when Barnard visited, all power being provided by the two water wheels that have since been removed.  Even after hearing that Teaninich was the only distillery north of Inverness with electricity at that time it is still a surprise to learn that Glen Ord didn’t receive electricity until 1949, paraffin lamps having been used until then for lighting.
          在
Barnard訪問時還沒有引擎發動機,所有的動能來自於2個已經被移除的水輪。Teaninich帝尼克當時曾經是Inverness北方唯一電力化的酒廠,Glen Ord卻是一直到1949才開始電氣化並停止使用石蠟燈,甚至聽聞之後仍然會感到驚訝。

Glen_Ord_Distillery  遊客中心和塔形屋頂

The distillery changed hands a couple of times before becoming part of DCL in 1925 and onward into Diageo today.  Aside from the extensive developments in malting on the site there have been further expansions over the last 50 years and I am grateful to Scott Christie for showing me around and for placing some of Barnard’s comments into context.  We began in one of those developments - the conversion of an old warehouse into one of the most informative visitor centres I have seen on this journey.
            酒廠在
1925年成為DCL集團之前曾經2度易手,而隨後併入今日的Diageo。除了致力於發展麥芽設備,在過去的50年已經有很大的進展,而且我對於Scott Christie能夠引導我到處逛還有對Barnard的意見提出註解感到非常感謝。我們從這些的新設施之一開始.........一個舊倉庫轉換成我在這次旅程中看到的最翔實的遊客中心之一。

 Glen_Ord_cask_influence

There are a series of displays on the history of the distillery and on different aspects of the industry, including malting, milling, the cooperage, the coppersmith, the effect of different cask types and ages and an example of an illicit still.  There is a relaxing tasting room with a window showing inside the adjoining warehouse and here I saw for the first time the extended range of the Diageo ‘Classic Malts’ together in one display.  Glen Ord was previously one of Diageo’s ‘Hidden Malts’ but this category was disbanded and the whiskies added to the original six Classic Malts in 2006 along with some others, although Glen Ord has since dropped out again in the UK as it is now export only.
           那裡有一系列關於酒廠歷史的展示,還有關於這個產業不同的觀點,
包括發麥、磨麥、製桶、銅匠、不同木桶的類型和年齡的影響及非法蒸餾器的展示。有一個放鬆心情的品酒室從窗戶可以看到裡面毗鄰著倉庫內的展示窗口,從這裡我第一次看到帝亞吉歐的“經典麥芽系列延伸產品在一起展示。Glen Ord曾經是帝亞吉歐的“隱藏版麥芽系列”之一,但這一系列已經消失。而且這些威士忌連同其他的威士忌在2006年添加到6經典麥芽系列雖然Glen Ord再次退出英國市場,目前專做出口。

 Glen_Ord_Classic_Malts  經典麥芽系列

Scott next pointed out some of the old buildings, including the old maltings where the Saladin boxes operated, now without its kiln, and the adjoining kiln pagodas from the later maltings.  Inside new buildings we saw the new stainless steel semi-lauter mash tun installed in 2010 to replace the previous cast iron tun.  The tun takes a 12.5 tonne mash but only has two waters run through instead of the more common three.  There are still 8 washbacks but they now take a hefty 59,000 litres of wort each for a long fermentation of 74 hours.
          Scott
隨後指出了一些舊大樓,包括曾經是薩拉丁發麥芽的老屋子,現在晚期的發芽屋子沒有窯心和毗鄰的塔形屋頂。在新建築中,我們看到在2010安裝的新款不銹鋼半萊特式糖化槽,以取代以前的鑄鐵式
糖化槽,糖化槽有12.5公噸的容量,採用的是2次加水的糖化程序取代一般常見得3次加水的糖化程序。現在仍有8個發酵槽能夠處裡的麥汁每個高達59,000公升,他們採取了74小時的長時間發酵。

 Glen_Ord_Still_house蒸餾大樓

A new still house was built in 1966 and stands right by the country road that passes by, the stills at that time increased from 2 to 6 and changed from coal fired to steam heating.  The three wash stills are 18,500 litres and the three spirit stills are 16,000.  The stills are all ‘onion’ shaped with wide rounded bases and very slightly descending lyne arms.  The middle cut has a wider range than many distilleries, from 74% down to 58%.  There are no stray worm tubs sitting here any more and the water in the condensers has been preheated in the maltings, a by-product of drying the barley, to provide a slower condensing rate.
         新的
蒸餾房子建於1966,就矗立在縣道路旁,當時的蒸餾器從2個增加到6個,煤炭直火式改變成蒸汽線圈加熱式。三個酒汁蒸餾器容量18,500公升,三個烈酒蒸餾器16000公升。蒸餾器形狀全是洋蔥型還有非常寬大的底部,採用輕微下降的林恩臂,酒心收集的平均範圍比其他酒廠還要廣泛,從74%下降到58%為止,並沒有使用蟲桶來冷卻水流入冷凝器之前已經在麥芽廠預先加熱;烘乾麥芽時的附加產品,提供一個緩慢的冷凝速度。

Glen_Ord_Warehouses  舊廠房

Barnard had tasted an 1882 make, so a 4yo at most, which he found “very agreeable to the palate”.  I enjoyed hints of ginger and orange in that rich 12yo Singleton, along with an interesting discussion with Scott about perceptions of whisky around the world; my thanks to him and the staff here for a memorable tour and their kind hospitality.
     
    Barnard當時嚐到了4年以上的1882年份威士忌,他發現“非常令人愉悅的味覺”。我很喜歡豐富的12yo Singleton裡帶有生薑和柑橘味道,隨後和Scott先生有一段有趣的討論關於全世界威士忌產業的看法,我非常感謝他和這裡的工作人員對我的的盛情款待,還有給我一個難忘的旅遊。

Glen_Ord_warehouse  堆疊式酒窖

Around 15% of the whisky is bottled as single malt with the rest going into blends such as Dewars and Johnnie Walker.  The standard release is now called The Singleton of Glen Ord and is a 12yo that is not available in the UK, other than at the distillery.  This whisky has been produced specifically for sale in Asian markets (complementing the Singleton of Dufftown for UK retail and the Singleton of Glendullan for the US) and is from a 50/50 mix of sherry and bourbon casks.                                                                                                                                                                             大約只有15%的威士忌裝瓶為單一麥芽,其餘的將會拿去調和成為帝王和約翰走路等產品。相較於廠內的其他酒款,現在標準款被稱為The Singleton of Glen Ord 12年,並沒有在英國推出。這瓶威士忌已經專門在亞洲市場銷售(補充:美國為the Singleton of Glendullan英國是the Singleton of Dufftown),是採50/50的比例混合雪莉桶酒和波本桶酒。

 The distillery was producing 364,000 litres p.a. when Barnard visited but now has a capacity of up to 4m litres.  Barnard noted 8 warehouses and records one that was “built entirely of iron, quite a new departure in material for Bonded Warehouses, and highly recommended by Mr. Mackenzie” who may have been pulling his leg or was misunderstood as there is no record of it here now.  The warehouses then held 791,000 litres but now have a capacity for 15,000 casks, all in dunnage warehouses, although the spirit is first taken to Auchroisk distillery near Mulben in Speyside for casking.
              
Barnard參觀酒廠時每年的產量是364,000公升但現在的產量已經提升到4百萬公升 。
Barnard指出8個倉庫而且記錄著其中有一間“完全是鐵製的,對於保稅倉庫的材質來說是一種嶄新的做法,這是MacKenzie先生強力推薦的”,或許他是在開自己的玩笑,也有可能是誤用,只是現在都沒有記錄了。這些倉庫當時存放了791,000公升的容量,但是現在的容量達到15000桶,全部放在堆疊式倉庫,雖然這些烈酒是第一次從Speyside Mulben附近Auchroisk酒廠運來陳年。

Once more Barnard included some lines of verse that are unaccredited, in this case being the last two verses of Robert Burns’ poem The Author’s Earnest Cry and Prayer, which we have discussed before when he quoted the same lines in his Kintyre Gistillery report from Campbletown, and which end with the rousing words “Freedom and whisky gang thegither, Tak aff your dram!”.  Whatever the reason for Barnard including it here, we both now finished our drams and headed south to Inverness, now leaving the cliffs, seascapes and verdant beauty of the northeast coast behind.
        
 Barnard又在未經授權的情況下引用了幾行詩句,在這種情況下成為Robert Burns詩詞裡的2“作家真摯的哭泣和祈禱,是我們引述從CampbletownKintyre酒廠的報告中相同的幾行詩句前是必須先討論的,並利用帶勁的話做結尾Freedom and whisky gang thegither, Tak aff your dram!”.  不管Barnard在這裡其包含的原因,我們現在已經完成我們的威士忌之旅,而且往南前往Inverness,離開了懸崖,海景和青翠美麗的東北海岸就在背後。

 

本文章原文和圖片轉登自WhiskyStory網站,作者是Dougie,主要是跟隨著Alfred Barnard的足跡去探訪蘇格蘭蒸餾廠,在1885年夏天起Barnard周遊蘇格蘭各家酒廠,定期為倫敦酒類週刊撰寫文章,他的旅遊史記在1887年出刊。

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